Fasching!

A few years ago, Frau Weiss, one of the German interns at MGIS (our school in Milwaukee) came into the teacher’s room chatting wildly about Unsinniger Donnerstag and waving a piece of the principal's tie… that she had just cut off.  I don’t know what was more confusing  - what this Unsinniger Donnerstag was or that Dr. Brugger actually let someone cut off half his tie! 

 It’s no surprise that many of us weren’t familiar with this custom that was primarily celebrated in southern Germany.  There seems to be an invisible line between North and South which separates Protestantism / Catholicism and the corresponding festivals.  Cologne is famous for it’s Karneval celebration but Bavaria can certainly hold its own.

Fasching, or Karneval, officially starts at 11:11 on November 11 but doesn’t really pick up steam until after Christmas. 

In January, costumes and elaborate masks appear in the stores and all sorts of decorations.  Posters advertising Fasching parties abound.  

Bakeries suddenly have a huge variety of Krapfen (known as Berliner in the North and jelly donuts in the US) which is a big change from the usual selection of plum and rose hip Hagebutte.  Many have alcohol in them and are nearly works of art.  Some are quite clever - one was cut in half with raspberry filling and sugar “seeds” on top.  Raspberry is Himbeer and this hamburger imposter is called a Himburger.  One tradition is to make one with a mustard filling and sneak it in with the others.  Those crazy Germans…

Unsinniger Donnerstag itself, this year on February 7, is also the main day for Fasching parties and allows for pranks and tricks (kind of like April Fools Day) including the sacrifice of countless ties.  Our three kids wore their costumes/masks and enjoyed a fun day of games, fun and treats. 

The costumes were similar to what we’d wear in the US for Halloween minus all the scary stuff. We were thrilled to recognize some familiar songs at Declan’s kindergarten party including “Das Fliegerlied” but the hit was definitely Psy’s “Gangnam Style.”  Imagine 85 German kindergarteners singing “Hey sessy lady…!” 

In the evening on Unsinniger Donnerstag, the women get their turn.  Weiberfasching celebrates a 1824 revolt by washer-women, when they stormed the city halls, cut men's ties, and are allowed to kiss any man who passes their way.  Nowadays, it’s an excuse to take a break from baking all those Krapfen and enjoy a costumed Ladies Night.

Russiger Freitag follows and is also based on the tradition of when pranksters would try to smear soot in people’s faces.   Declan’s kindergarten celebrated this as well – complete with blackface teachers.  A formal ball was held on Rosenmontag and of course, you can’t celebrate Fasching without parades full of wildly decorated floats, costumed dancers and the Prinzenpaar, which represents each village.  Dietfurt, a nearby town, draws a huge crowd to its Chinese Fasching parade!

What struck us was how Fasching completely took over daily life for the last week before Ash Wednesday.  Jovial costumed crowds walked the streets and stores were either closed or only open for half a day on Shrove Tuesday.  There were some hints that Valentine's Day also happens in February but for the most part, it was all about Fasching!

Emma's class (she's the "hippy" back row, 4th from left)

.