There is a 2 week break in May for the Pfingstferien, Pentecost, and this time we headed west to the beautiful wine region near Mannheim. Serena and Emma participated in the German National Gymnastics week, Turnfest, so the remaining three of us traveled to Mannheim a few days earlier than their performance to enjoy the gorgeous countryside.

On the way, we stopped in Schwäbisch Hall and found it enchanting, despite the rain.

Speyer is well known for its cathedral and precious relics. Declan was drawn more to a crown of a different sort...  

Now that's a holy femur!

The Technik Museum in Speyer includes highlights like the BURAN space shuttle, a sub and an old Boeing 747.  The big draw for Declan was definitely a morning alone with Papa...:)

From outside....

From inside

 

We toured the monastery of Comburg, founded in 1070.  We never cease to be amazed that walls this tremendous can still stand after so long.  The monastery was also used as a training center in WWII and later a prisoner of war camp.   Declan was excited to discover some clearly ancient secret carvings - apparently a "Jochen" and "Nico" had been there in medieval times....

 

Our apartment was nestled in the picturesque wine valley along the Rhine.  A winery tour was of course obligatory and we chose the Wachtenburg Winzer in Wachenheim.  

It was quite strange having just one kid with us.  At first, we enjoyed actually being able to have adult conversations but then, as if he sensed it was too pleasant, Declan got quite clingy to Andrew -- an attachment that still hasn't let up 6 weeks later.  Only Papa can read his book, tuck him in, etc.

 At long last, it was time for the girls' big performances in the Carl Benz Stadion in Mannheim. The months of practicing paid off with over 600 participants doing the same routine.

For 5 nights, the girls had been sleeping on the floor in a local school.  We were concerned before they even left because Serena and Emma were the youngest in the group.  One chaperone told us that although the girls held up well, Emma inevitably struggled and regularly fell asleep on the 10 minute train ride to and from the stadium and the school.   



Mannheim's Innenstadt uses a chessboard layout which is unusual for old European cities and instead of street names just has numbers and letters.

Back to the Past!

Speyer - Worms - Mainz:  These three cities formed a triangle of Jewish tolerance and at times, support in the middle ages.  In Speyer, for example, Jews were invited to live and do business by Bishop Rüdiger in 1084 who even built a wall around their quarter for their protection.   Of course, whenever there was a drought, flood or rampant sickness, it was always blamed on the Jews and they were mercilessly persecuted.

We learned that the Jews fell to the plague at a lower rate than the rest of medieval society and this was suspicious to the general gentile population.

Jews were required to visit a ritual bath, or Mikvah, which must be built according to certain specifications and have only "living" or running water.  This cleanliness perhaps prevented the lice now associated with the spread of the Plague.  We were able to visit one of these baths, from 1128 A.D. along with the synagogue remains in Speyer.



Wachenheim had its Jewish Cemetery under lock and key.  Since we didn't look like hooligans prone to vandalizing, the tourist office lent us the key.

Not a single flower bouquet was to be found in the whole cemetery, but many stones in accordance with Jewish tradition.

Pfad der Sinne - Wachenheim has a cool sensory path which just screamed to be experienced barefoot.

After a day of nature, we headed to Strasbourg, France.  Of course, we chose the coldest, wettest day of May.  C'est la vie...


We checked out the famous astrological clock in the cathedral, the charming town center and many (soggy) bridges.  Finally we were all ready for a croissant un chocolat chaud which I even managed to order in crappy French thanks to Andrew's whispers... :)

 While driving back into Germany, Andrew nearly hyperventilated when he saw a sign for the "Maginot Ligne."  You know what they say, you can take a history teacher out of the classroom...


This Maginot Line is basically a line of defenses and obstacles constructed by the French to keep the Germans out or at least hold them off in World War II.  It turned out to be effective in that the Germans avoided it completely. Instead they invaded through Belgium and conquered France within 6 weeks.

Unfortunately now, the Maginot Line represents a good tactic in theory that in the end failed miserably.  Structurally speaking, it was state of the art with an underground railroad, fantastic quarters for troops and excellent meal facilities.  All of which the invading Germans eventually enjoyed firsthand.







We rounded off the trip at Kurpfalz Park which reminds me of Bay Beach - petting zoo plus low tech rides.  Again, we notice the lack of safety rails, supervision, etc.  When we're back, I'm sure life will seem high security.

Day-old baked items are left out for the deer

 

  We caught a "Birds of Prey" show